Occupational licensing requirements present one of the steepest barriers to low-income Illinoisans starting careers in beauty services.

Illinois requires anyone seeking to become a barber, cosmetologist, nail technician or hair braider to obtain a state license, essentially a permission slip to work. Unlike 45 other states, Illinois offers only one pathway to licensure for each of these occupations, making entry more expensive and restrictive.1

Obtaining that license often requires earning a high school diploma, paying higher-than-average tuition costs and completing hundreds of hours of training before entering the workforce.

Several states have introduced apprenticeship pathways to licensure during the past decade. Illinois soon could do the same, modernizing its system while maintaining health and safety standards.

By approving apprenticeships, Illinois would allow workers to earn while they learn through supervised training, reduce reliance on costly education and expand access for residents who want to work but lack the education attainment. The measure now rests with Gov. J.B. Pritzker, who can sign House Bill 3460.

Getting licensed in Illinois

To become licensed as a barber, cosmetologist, nail technician or hair braider in Illinois, a person must:

  1. Be 16 or older2
  2. Have a high school diploma, GED equivalent or be 17 or older3
  3. Complete hundreds of education hours at an accredited school
  4. Pay an initial licensing fee

Applicants also must cover school application fees, tuition and supply costs. Barber school averaged $19,119 in Illinois in 2024, while cosmetology school averaged $20,100, far more than the national average.4,5

Supplies and books cost an additional $2,026 for barbers and $2,753 for cosmetologists. Programs take about a year to complete.4,5

The high upfront costs for these schools often drive students to borrow. A report from the Institute of Justice found cosmetology students frequently incur significant debt, with more than 3-in-5 taking out federal student loans.6

Statewide data for hair braiding and nail technician schools is limited, but the most affordable programs in Chicago can still cost over $2,000.7,8

Barbers, cosmetologists and nail technicians also must pass a state exam costing $100 to $195 depending on the profession. Hair braiders are exempt from testing.9,10,11

After passing the exam, these beauty service professionals must pay a state fee for a license. The fees range from $30 for hair braiders to $225 for cosmetologists.1

Cosmetologists, nail technicians and hair braiders also must complete 10 to 14 hours of continuing education every two years to renew their license. The renewal fee is $50.1

While these are low- to moderate-income professions, they can lift a family of four above the federal poverty line.12

Illinois barbers earn an average of $48,510 annually, according to the federal Bureau of Labor Statistics. Cosmetologists and hairdressers in the state earn $42,050 and manicurists $36,440.13

Effective and real barriers to employment

Illinois’ licensing rules create legal and structural barriers that disproportionately affect young people, low-income people and those who did not complete high school.

For the more than 63,000 Chicago residents living in poverty without a high school diploma or GED, that means fewer opportunities to start a career.14

The 1985 Illinois law governing barber, cosmetology, esthetics, hair braiding and nail technician licenses says anyone 16 or older can receive a license. However, 16-year-olds must have a high school diploma or GED equivalent to qualify for the exam.

While these requirements no longer apply after students turn 17, or the age where they are no longer legally required to attend school, most students need to be 18 to qualify to take the GED, with limited exceptions.

Most Illinois students also don’t receive a high school diploma until they graduate at age 17 or 18. This effectively raises the age most Illinoisans can start working in these professions to 17.

A high school diploma or GED isn’t required for licensure at 17 or older, but the law does require completing accredited hours at a licensed school to be eligible for the exam.

That’s another challenge for Illinoisans who did not complete high school, because many barbering, cosmetology, nail technician and hair braiding schools require a diploma or GED to participate in their programs.

This is particularly true in Chicago. Most barbering, cosmetology and hair braiding schools in the city require a diploma or GED.15

As a result, more than 63,000 Chicago residents living below the poverty line face significant and unnecessary additional hurdle beyond state law.

Melony Armstrong, the driving force behind Mississippi’s landmark 2005 legislation eliminating licensing requirements for hair braiders, and the entrepreneur whose legal battle later inspired the film Freedom Hair, experienced firsthand how occupational licensing laws can block entry into the beauty services industry.16

Armstrong was operating a successful hair braiding business and supporting her family when Mississippi regulators informed her she could not legally expand her business or train employees without thousands of hours of cosmetology training unrelated to braiding.

She challenged the law and ended licensing requirements for hair braiders in Mississippi. Now she advocates for reducing other unnecessary barriers preventing people from starting a career.

“What initially motivated me was simple: I was living the problem on a daily basis,” Armstrong said. “I had already jumped through hoops set by the board of cosmetology with getting a wigologist license … which by the way did not involve hair braiding.

Occupational licensing barriers disproportionately harm low-income people attempting to enter professions that have historically served as pathways to entrepreneurship and economic mobility, Armstrong said.

“Licensing requirements often create unnecessary barriers, not quality standards,” she said.

Armstrong said, “When licensing is not directly tied to health and safety, it stops being protection and starts becoming gatekeeping and control.”

While health and safety are often at the center of policy conversations surrounding beauty service licensing, research from the Institute for Justice indicates that licensing and licensing burdens had little or no substantive impact on health inspection outcomes for nail salons and barbershops.

The institute’s Clean Cut study found that health inspection outcomes were favorable and largely similar for thousands of nail salons in Connecticut and New York during a period when Connecticut did not license manicurists.17

The report found similar results for barbershops. Those in Mississippi, which imposed more burdensome licensing requirements, had inspection outcomes comparable to barbershops in Alabama, where licensing requirements were less burdensome.

Not all beauty occupations carry the same steep requirements. Illinois does not license tattoo artists, instead regulating tattoo shops and requiring sanitation training for staff, despite the long-lasting consequences of a botched procedure. 18

Illinois compared with other states

Illinois is one of only five states that does not offer an alternative pathway to licensure in these professions.1 That means Illinoisans must go the traditional route of attending trade school to become licensed. Illinois’ education requirements present a steep barrier to new entrants.

Cosmetology licenses:

Illinois requires 1,500 hours of training, among the most in the country. It is one of 22 states without an apprenticeship pathway for cosmetologists.

Many students need years to complete these hours. On average, fewer than one-third of cosmetology students from schools examined nationwide graduated on time, and even after an additional year, less than two-thirds of students graduated, the Institute for Justice found.6

Twelve states require fewer hours, including New York and California, which mandates 1,000. After training, graduates pay a $225 licensing fee in Illinois, more than cosmetologists in 30 other states.

Cosmetologists in Illinois must complete 14 hours of continuing education every two years, more than in 47 states. Thirty-eight states require no continuing education.

Barber licenses:

Illinois is one of 19 states without apprenticeship pathways for barbers, who must complete 1,500 hours of training.

Twenty-seven states require fewer hours, including neighboring Missouri and Wisconsin, which require only 1,000. New York requires the fewest, at 540 hours.

After exams, barbers in Illinois pay $157 for a license. They are not required to complete continuing education but must pay a $50 renewal fee every two years.

Nail technician licenses:

Illinois is one of 29 states with only one pathway to licensure for nail technicians.

Nail technicians in Illinois must complete 350 hours of training, more than in 22 states. The most common requirement nationwide is 300 hours. Eleven states require fewer than that, with Alaska mandating just 12.

Getting a license in Illinois costs $215, more than in 26 states.

Nail technicians also must complete 10 hours of continuing education every two years. All but three states mandate less, with 39 of those states requiring none.

Hair braiding licenses:

Illinois is one of 17 states that require a license to braid hair. Two require only registration.

Illinois requires 300 hours of training and offers no alternative pathway. The hours requirement is higher than in eight other licensing states, including neighboring Iowa and Missouri.

Hair braiders in Illinois pay a $30 registration fee and a $50 renewal fee every two years. They must also complete 10 hours of continuing education, the second-highest requirement in the nation.

Fewer cosmetologists, barbers getting licensed

State data shows 8,963 fewer licensed barbers, cosmetologists, hair braiders and nail technicians in Illinois in fiscal 2024 than in fiscal 2020. That’s an 11% drop since before the pandemic.19

Barber and cosmetology licenses declined during that time, while nail technician licensing remained stable. Hair braiding licenses showed significant growth.

Illinois does not publicly publish comprehensive exam pass-rate data for these professions. But national data indicates that about 255 of those who took barbering, cosmetology and nail technician licensing tests in 2026 failed, meaning they were forced to wait weeks before paying to take the test again, losing out on potential income.20,21,22

Restrictions in Mississippi effectively pushed many skilled braiders into the informal economy before reforms were enacted, Armstong said. She believes reducing barriers and opening more pathways to licensure will encourage many skilled but uncredentialled people to enter the industry.

“Once that barrier was removed, thousands of women (in Mississippi) were able to legally enter the field, start businesses and earn income,” she said. “Many who had been operating ‘underground’ were able to now practice legally.”

Career-first approach could accelerate employment

Illinois’ single-pathway system limits entry into these professions and limits entrepreneurship. A career-first education model emphasizes skills-based training, including apprenticeships.

Apprenticeships combine classroom instruction with paid on-the-job training lasting one to three years. Apprentices typically earn 50% to 60% of entry-level wages, with pay increasing as skills improve. Upon completion, they earn credentials and may receive debt-free college credit.23

Illinois task force recommends apprenticeship pathways

A 2024 report by the Comprehensive Licensing Information to Minimize Barriers Task Force in Illinois recommended introducing alternative pathways for low- to middle-income occupations, including beauty services.24

The task force, created under House Bill 5575, found that licensing requirements often impose unnecessary barriers and disproportionately affect low-income and minority communities.25

After two years of research and analysis, the task force said it could not find data to justify the costly burdens placed on those hoping to enter these low- to moderate- income occupations.

To reduce these barriers, the task force recommended reforms including:

  • Allowing those seeking a license to be paid during their training.
  • Offering regulatory alternatives to licensure, such as registration, certification, apprenticeships or competency based on education, training and/or experience.
  • Shifting from licensing to registration or certification for cosmetologists wherever possible.
  • Eliminating licensing requirements for hair braiders while maintaining sanitation and safety requirements.
  • Lowering licensing fees
  • Encouraging reciprocity agreements between states and adopting universal license recognition.

Apprenticeship pathways expand across the U.S.

In the past decade several states have created apprenticeship pathways to licensure for barbering, cosmetology and nail technicians, providing a clear road map for reform in Illinois.

In 2019, Idaho passed Senate Bill 1053, which allows barbers to qualify for an occupational license by completing an apprenticeship program under supervision.26 Barbers in Idaho previously were required to complete barber school to qualify for their license.

In 2021, Michigan introduced an apprenticeship pathway for barbers. House Bill 4207 allows prospective barbers to complete the same number of hours required for school by instead participating in an apprenticeship to qualify to take the state exam.27

In 2022, West Virginia’s House Bill 4024 created a cosmetology apprenticeship pathway allowing individuals to earn licensure through supervised on-the-job training instead.27 The program covered cosmetology services such as hair, nails and skin care, and the state later set rules to put the apprenticeship system into practice.28,29

In 2024, Mississippi introduced apprenticeship pathways for cosmetologists, nail techs and estheticians starting in 2025.30 That law passed 19 years after the state eliminated license requirements for hair braiders with the help of Armstrong and the Institute for Justice.31

However, the 2024 legislation requires apprentices to complete double the number of hours as students attending a school.

In each of these states, apprenticeship training takes place under the supervision of a licensed professional in a salon or shop setting, where training hours are recorded by the apprentice and verified by the supervising licensee and state licensing board. When it comes to the few states that license hair braiders, only three of the 17 provide an alternative pathway to licensure, including Alabama and Hawaii. But while both offer apprenticeship pathways, and a model for Illinois, these states have recently moved toward deregulating licenses to practice. .

Alabama previously required apprentice hair braiders to complete the 10th grade or GED, as well as 420 hours of training under a licensed sponsor within a six-month period before taking the exams to qualify for a license.32

However, Senate Bill 183, signed by the governor in April 2026, removes state licensing requirements and board oversight for hair braiders starting in October. They can then choose to become licensed voluntarily, but that would no longer be required.33

Meanwhile, Hawaii requires hair braiders to earn a cosmetology or hair dressing license to practice in the state. The state introduced legislation earlier this year in the form of House Bill 1697, which would have required only that hair braiders register with the state and complete health and safety training.34 The bill stalled in May, however.

Illinois considered eliminating licenses for hair braiders in 2025. House Bill 3356 would have eliminated all licensing requirements for hair braiders, ending the need for school and licensing fees.35

However, the bill stalled after pushback from the Illinois Association of Hair Braiders, which argued that the bill carried risks to public safety and threatened the erasure of professional standing for already working hair braiders.

In total, 33 states do not require hair braiders to earn a license before starting to practice. And the momentum is growing. At least 12 of those states removed their licensing requirements for hair braiding during the past decade, including Alabama, whose law takes effect later this year.36

More recent legislation offers Illinois hair braiders hope. Lawmakers in the Illinois House and Senate have passed HB 3460, which would create apprenticeship pathways for hair braiders, as well as barbers, cosmetologists, estheticians and nail technicians.37

The apprentice would work under an agreement with a licensed salon or shop while getting practical training and supplemental instruction for the desired license. A licensed professional would supervise the apprentice.

An apprenticeship generally would require more hours than school, but the apprentice must be paid at least minimum wage. The bill also requires participating businesses to display a sign noting that an apprentice works there. It now awaits a signature from Gov. J.B. Pritzker.

Conclusion

Illinois’ beauty services industry presents a clear paradox: The state requires extensive time, education and financial investment to enter professions often considered entry-level pathways to economic mobility.

While these requirements are intended to protect consumers, evidence suggests they also restrict opportunity, particularly for low-income residents, those without formal educational credentials and those seeking faster entry into the workforce.

Compared with other states, Illinois stands out for both the cost and lack of flexibility in its licensing system. The decline in licensed professionals since 2020 underscores the urgency of reform.

Research, other states and the CLIMB Task Force all indicate that alternative pathways can maintain safety while expanding opportunity. Apprenticeships offer a practical solution by allowing people to earn income while gaining experience and reducing reliance on costly education.

Mississippi’s experience shows that removing unnecessary barriers can quickly expand opportunity. Reform allowed thousands to legally enter the workforce, support families and build businesses, Armstrong said.

“I knew that if the law changed, it would open doors, not only for me and my family but for thousands of women to become entrepreneurs, support their families and build something of their own — without unnecessary obstacles standing in the way,” she said.

Illinois has an opportunity to act.

Adopting HB 3460 would expand pathways without lowering standards. A career-first model that values skills and experience alongside education would broaden access, strengthen the workforce and better serve both workers and consumers.

Endnotes

  1. West Virginia University Knee Regulatory Research Center. “2025 Annual Licensing Database Snapshot Released.” December 30, 2025. West Virginia University Knee Regulatory Research Center.
  2. Illinois General Assembly. Barber, Cosmetology, Esthetics, Hair Braiding, and Nail Technology Act of 1985. Illinois General Assembly.
  3. HSLDA. “Compulsory School Age in Illinois.” Accessed May 8, 2026. HSLDA.
  4. College Tuition Compare. “Barbering/Barber Programs in Illinois.” Accessed May 8, 2026. College Tuition Compare.
  5. College Tuition Compare. “Cosmetology/Cosmetologist Programs in Illinois.” Accessed May 8, 2026. College Tuition Compare.
  6. Institute for Justice. Beauty School Debt and Drop-Outs. By Mindy Menjou, Michael Bednarczuk, and Amy Hunter. July 7, 2021. Institute for Justice.
  7. Sublime Professional. “Nail Tech School Near Me – Illinois (Chicago).” Accessed May 8, 2026. Sublime Professional.
  8. LYS School of Braiding, Weaving, Locs. “Home.” Accessed May 8, 2026. hairbraidingschool.com.
  9. Continental Testing Services, Inc. “Illinois 035 – Professional Land Surveyor.” Accessed May 26, 2026. Continental Testing Services.
  10. Continental Testing Services, Inc. “Illinois 011 – Licensed Cosmetologist.” Accessed May 26, 2026. Continental Testing Services.
  11. Continental Testing Services, Inc. “Illinois 006 – Licensed Barber.” Accessed May 26, 2026. Continental Testing Services
  12. U.S. Department of Health and Human Services. Detailed Guidelines 2026. U.S. Department of Health and Human Services.
  13. U.S. Bureau of Labor Statistics. “Quarterly Census of Employment and Wages Data Views.” Accessed May 26, 2026. U.S. Bureau of Labor Statistics QCEW Data Views
  14. U.S. Census Bureau, American Community Survey. “S1701: Poverty Status in the Past 12 Months.” Accessed May 8, 2026. U.S. Census Bureau ACS Table S1701.
  15. Illinois Department of Financial and Professional Regulation. “Cosmetology Continuing Education Sponsor Lookup.” Accessed May 8, 2026. Illinois Department of Financial and Professional Regulation.
  16. Mississippi Legislature. “HB0454 Conference Report.” Mississippi Legislature HB0454 Conference Report.
  17. Institute for Justice. “Executive Summary.” In Clean Cut: How Clipping Unnecessary Licensing Can Grow Opportunities for Barbers and Manicurists and Keep Consumers Safe. Accessed May 11, 2026. Institute for Justice Clean Cut Report.
  18. Illinois Department of Public Health. “Body Art Establishments.” Accessed May 8, 2026. Illinois Department of Public Health.
  19. Illinois General Assembly. Barber, Cosmetology, Esthetics, Hair Braiding, and Nail Technology Report. Illinois General Assembly Report PDF.
  20. “Barbering Exam Pass Rates.” Salon Exam. Accessed May 22, 2026. Salon Exam.
  21. “Nail Tech Exam Pass Rates.” Salon Exam. Accessed May 22, 2026. Salon Exam.
  22. “Cosmetology Exam Pass Rates.” Salon Exam. Accessed May 22, 2026. Salon Exam.
  23. Illinois Policy Institute. Beyond Degrees: Empowering Illinoisans Through Career-First Education. Illinois Policy Institute.
  24. Illinois Department of Financial and Professional Regulation. CLIMB Task Force Report. IDFPR CLIMB Task Force Report.
  25. BillTrack50. “Illinois HB5575 Bill Details.” Accessed May 8, 2026. BillTrack50 Illinois HB5575.
  26. LegiScan. “Idaho Senate Bill 1053 (2019).” Accessed May 7, 2026. LegiScan Idaho S1053.
  27. MichiganVotes. “Michigan House Bill 4207 (2021).” MichiganVotes HB4207.
  28. BillTrack50. “Bill Details 1418067.” Accessed May 8, 2026. BillTrack50 Bill 1418067.
  29. West Virginia Board of Barbers and Cosmetologists. “Announcements.” Accessed May 8, 2026. West Virginia Board of Barbers and Cosmetologists.
  30. Mississippi Legislature. “HB313 Full Text.” Mississippi Legislature HB313.
  31. Mississippi Legislature. “HB0454 Conference Report.” Accessed May 7, 2026. Mississippi Legislature HB0454 Conference Report
  32. Alabama Board of Cosmetology and Barbering. “Apprenticeships.” Accessed May 8, 2026. Alabama Board of Cosmetology and Barbering Apprenticeships.
  33. Alabama Board of Cosmetology and Barbering. “Important Law Update: Natural Hair Styling Changes.” Accessed May 8, 2026. Alabama Board of Cosmetology and Barbering.
  34. BillTrack50. “Bill Details 1943029.” Accessed May 8, 2026. BillTrack50 Bill 1943029.
  35. BillTrack50. “Bill Details: HB 1824591.” Accessed May 22, 2026. https://www.billtrack50.com/billdetail/1824591.
  36. Cato Journal. “Untangling Hair Braider Deregulation in Virginia.” Accessed May 7, 2026. Cato Journal.
  37. Illinois General Assembly. “HB3460 Amendment Text.” Accessed May 7, 2026. Illinois General Assembly HB3460 Amendment Text.